Land Rover Locked KVM/MCU Replacement Guide

Lock50 HW04-C Demo Copy keys in Locked KVM. www.Lock50.co.uk. Network Integrity Test. Connect Lock50 Device to the vehicle diagnostic socket using OBDII cable. Click [OK] to start operation. Connecting to vehicle… Download Vehicle Info… Force Ignition On… Processing… GWM. Processing… BCM. Processing… RFA. Processing… HVAC. Processing… CHCM. Processing… RGTM. Processing… FCIM. Processing… VIM. Processing… PCM. Processing… PRDM. Processing… PDM. Processing… GSM. Processing… DDM. Vehicle Info: VIN SALWA2EKXHA688990, Brand Land Rover, Model Range Rover Sport / L494, Model Year 2017, Engine 3.0L Diesel, Body 5 door, Drive LHD, Transmission 8-Speed Automatic. Control Modules, DTCs Report, CCF Utilities, PEPS System, Special Tools. Diagnostic Tools > Modules. (Scrolling through module list). RFA. Diagnostic Tools > Utilities > RFA > Description. ECU Identifiers, Core Assembly Number HPLA-14C250-AC, Delivery Assembly Number HPLA-19H440-AD, Software Number HPLA-14C104-AG, ECU Calibration Data #1 HK62-14C105-AC, Signal Configuration Number HPLA-14C438-AF, Serial Number 3351512704, VIN SALWA2EKXHA688990, Central Broadcast VIN SALWA2EKXHA688990. ECU Utilities: DTC, On Demand Self Test, RFA Module Reset, Live Data. ECU Programming: Software Update, Learn Key. (Navigating back). Diagnostic Tools > Special Tools. Key Duplicator. Arm Off. Key Duplicator Information. This function make a copy of the working key if it has been lost. This function is intended for LOCKED RFA modules where [Add Spare Key] function is not provided or the alarm is ARMED. This function requires a Special Clonable JLR Key. Click [OK] to start Data Collection. Follow further instructions. Collecting Data. Connecting to vehicle… Processing… RFA. Information. RFA Control module description: Software Number HPLA-14C104-AG, Alarm mode DISARMED. Passive Entry/Passive Start (PEPS) function Allowed for copy, Remote Lock/Unlock function Allowed for copy, Emergency start function Allowed for copy. Click [OK] and follow further instructions. Key Duplicator. Processing... Please wait until it is completed. Make Key Copy Information. Learned Keys in vehicle: 2. Prepared Keys: 0. You can prepare up to 2 Key(s). If you have existing Key(s) use it first, otherwise, use a Special Clonable JLR Key. Place Key on Reader and click [OK] to continue. Key Duplicator. Read Key... Please wait until it is completed. Write Key... Please wait until it is completed. Make Key Copy Complete. Operation successfully completed. Return code 2: Existing Key has been rewritten. Description: Key is currently programmed. Key Position: 2. Key SerialNo: 03B15D36. Click [OK] to continue. Make Key Copy. Make more Keys ? Learned Keys in vehicle: 2. Prepared Keys: 1. You can prepare up to 1 Key(s). If you have existing Key(s) use it first, otherwise, use a Special Clonable JLR Key. Place Next Key on Reader and click [Yes] to continue or click [No] to finish. Key Duplicator. Read Key... Please wait until it is completed. Write Key... Please wait until it is completed. Make Key Copy Complete. Operation successfully completed. Return code 1: Key has been written. Description: Key is currently programmed. Key Position: 1. Key SerialNo: 94EEF235. Click [OK] to continue. Key Duplicator Complete. Operation successfully completed. Description: 2 Key(s) has been programmed.

Here we have a KVM module for a 2021 Range Rover Discovery that came in for an MCU virgin chip replacement. The customer is a locksmith and he said that he's not able to program a key for that vehicle because of a KVM lock located on that chip. So he brought us another chip. He wants it installed, soldered on the board. He's going to reprogram that chip and reprogram a key for that vehicle. He said if you were to take this to Range Rover to do it for you, it's about $4,000. For all of you who wanna buy Range Rovers. He knows best, I do not know about the prices but that's what he told me. Now one thing I can tell you about the board is I hate working on those boards because of the coat that you see on the board. You see that shiny coat? Makes it very difficult to solder or desolder components off the board. I worked on similar boards before, vehicle boards, where when I applied hot air to the board, everything smoked like crazy. I do not know how it's going to be like on this one but I did tell the customer, there's a chance that we may not work on the board. If it's going to smoke, I do not want my store to be filled with smoke. So we'll see. Let's take a look at the board and that's the coat I'm telling you about, that shiny coat. I'm thinking instead of applying hot air to remove that chip and expose all the coat on that board to heat, maybe we can apply low-melt solder onto the pins and desolder the chip that way. But for the sake of trying, why not try hot air first and see how it goes. That's a very expensive board and you need to have a heart of steel to work on such a board. Because if you damage it, the customer is gonna pay a lot of money to get one from Range Rover. We're gonna have to be careful. And to be honest, I'm kinda nervous applying hot air to that board. I mean that coat is changing colors, right as we speak. I applied just a tiny bit of hot air. And look at this. You now see a brown spot. I only applied a tiny bit of hot air. So I do not think that I'm gonna go that route and I already smell the smoke. That weird smell. The coat is melting down and the same smell that happened when I worked on a similar board where everything just suddenly smoked. I'm not gonna apply hot air. We're gonna have to do it the safe way and the healthy way. The organic way. Let me turn my fume extractor on and let's go the low-melt solder way. I was right now applying hot air. By applying hot air we are exposing the whole board to heat. And the site is not gonna be good after we are done desoldering the chip because everything is gonna look brown. And the customer is gonna look at the board and say what's all that brown stuff? Did you burn my board? I still smell that burnt. Smells like burnt plastic. This cannot be good. It cannot be healthy, no way. I do have my fume extractor on but still you cannot escape all the smell. That smell is intense. When the customer first came in, I told them that we're not going to work on it, but he insisted. And he's an old customer that always comes in with stuff like that. Since maybe five years ago. Oh yeah, it looks like low-melt solder did its job. The pins are loose, very nice. Let's move that ball right over here. No, no, no, not over here. Over here. What I like about this solder ball is it listens to me. Perfect. Good boy. But I mean, you know, this. And you have to be slick with those techniques. You have to know how to move that solder ball from over the chip, from under the chip, from between the pins. Juggle with it behind your neck, under your legs and then out. Do the job and. One more time and then we're gonna attempt to desolder the chip. We just wanna soak those pins with low-melt solder. Now one thing we forgot to do is check the alignment on the chip. I cannot read any letters on that chip. We have to know where pin number one is and how the chip is aligned because we do not have any indicators on the board. So if I just remove that chip, we're not gonna know how to align the other chip. Should pin number one be here? Should it be here? Should it be here? Should it be here? I cannot read a thing. We're gonna try our anti-glare light and see if we are able to read anything. But as of now, I cannot read a thing. Okay. I can read BD right here. Let me look at the new chip. Do we have a BD on that chip? Yes, we do. So the chip the dot here should be here. Right, so we have BD and we have BD right here. So pin number one should be on the bottom. Let's put a dot here. That's pin number one, whatever that arrow means. I do not even know what that arrow means but I just put it there. It's pointing the wrong direction, but who cares. I do weird stuff sometimes. Let's apply hot air right now and see if we are able to remove that chip. Are we gonna be able to remove it with just minimal heat? It looks like that chip did not even flinch. Oh well. Yeah, that chip is not going anywhere. I'm not able to remove that chip even with low-melt solder. Look at this. And look at the smoke. You can already see some of the smoke. And that coat, it turns brown quick. We're gonna have to apply heat again. Maybe just to show you the struggles of replacing that chip. What can we do? Look, the pins are loose, but the center under is what's giving us a hard time. The chip is loose. You know what? Let me grab a BGA blade and maybe we can just go under that chip. Oh, right there, right there. You see? Think outside the box. Think outside the box. Right? That chip was glued, or that's an underfill. From the coat that they applied on top, it went under the chip and and we're all good. Yep, I think so. Everything looks flat to me. And I can tell you one thing, the reason I like to work for this customer is he's very generous. He's one of those customers that I like working for. We test all the tools that we sell, or we use them on our bench here. So buy with your eyes closed. Now, we're gonna use the NF.Mini Pen to apply solder onto those pins. And we're gonna drag solder, right? Just like that. Beautiful. The amazing NF.Mini Pen. If you have not already bought one, just log in to our site, search for NF.Mini. NF stands for Northbridge Fix. And that's one great tool. Wow. I've been using this very same tip for the past maybe six months, seven months and it still works like new. Amazing. Just notice how no two pins are bridging. And that's because of high quality flux. Original Amtech Flux, one of the best fluxes in the market. Look at how consistent that flux is. Just imagine yourself using cheap flux. Then you have to reapply flux and then you have bridges and then you have to clear the bridges and then you rip pads off just because you do not have good flux, you end up with a big mess. Now we're gonna grab that chip and again, where's pin number one? Pin number one is right here. That's the virgin chip. And pin number one is gonna align with the mark that we have on the board. We're gonna align it and then apply hot air. Now, let's go ahead and see if we can reflow that chip. It doesn't have to be perfectly aligned now. Once solder melts on the pads, then we can move that chip down in place. But let me just use my anti-glare light so we can see better. Awesome. Let's go ahead and clean up. Then we're gonna test all the pins. Make sure they are solid. The way I see it, all the pins are perfectly aligned. But we're gonna have to check pin by pin. Then if everything is good, we're gonna call the customer to come and pick up tomorrow. Let's start from here. Look at the way the pins are solid. Nice. Just tell me that's not better than factory. Right? Solid, solid, solid. And how about I say solid for every pin on this chip? What do you think? Wow, amazing. Every pin is making a very solid connection. This guy is loose. What's going on? So we have one, two and three. Let's take care of this now because those are the only three loose pins on the board. Did we check all three corners or I'll go over this corner just in case. And that's how we would solder pin by pin. Using the NF.Mini Pen, one of the most amazing pens that you can lay your hand on. It's amazing and awesome for tiny jobs like this. Just look at the precision on the tip. And since we're making this side look like a mirror, why not do the rest? Just fly through it. But of course we're gonna have to apply flux. Unless we are asking for trouble. And we're done. Now we can say that we are done. Grab a swab, some alcohol, clean up. And then we're gonna go over the pins one more time, one last time. And then we're gonna call it off for this video. Let's go ahead and test the pins pin by pin. Make sure all the pins are solid, we do not have bridges. Very nice. And finally, wow.